Exploring the smoky-hued coastline at Ka'ena Point, I feel caught between two worlds. The day is over and night is ahead. The ocean spreads out to one side, and to the other is land—the beach, roads, and, further on, buildings. I step from jagged rock to spongy sand, through water, and around tide pools that crawl with creatures, the waves shush-shushing. Up ahead, a fisherman stares out to sea, uninterested in us, seemingly transfixed.